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How Does a Diesel Engine Work?
Diesel Engine Powering a Generator Set

In today’s world, where fuel prices are increasing as a consequence of spiraling demand and diminishing supply, you need to choose a cost-effective fuel to meet your needs. Thanks to the invention of Rudolph Diesel, the diesel engine has proved to be extremely efficient and cost effective.

Diesel fuel is priced moderately higher than gasoline, but diesel has a higher energy density, i.e. more energy can be extracted from diesel as compared with the same volume of gasoline. Therefore, diesel engines in automobiles provide higher mileage, making it an obvious choice for heavy-duty transportation and equipment. Diesel is heavier and oilier compared with gasoline and has a boiling point higher than that of water. And diesel engines are attracting greater attention due to higher efficiency and cost effectiveness.

The distinction lies in the type of ignition. While gasoline engines operate on spark ignition, diesel engines employ compression — ignition for igniting the fuel. In the latter, air is drawn into the engine and subjected to high compression that heats it up.

This results in a very high temperature in the engine, much higher than the temperature attained in a gasoline engine. At peak temperature and pressure, diesel that is let into the engine ignites on account of the extreme temperature.

In a diesel engine, air and the fuel are infused into the engine at different stages, as opposed to a gas engine where a mixture of air and gas are introduced. Fuel is injected into the diesel engine using an injector whereas in a gasoline engine, a carburetor is used for this purpose. In a gasoline engine, fuel and air are sent into the engine together, and then compressed. The air and fuel mixture limits fuel compression, and hence the overall efficiency.

A diesel engine compresses only air, and the ratio can be much higher. A diesel engine compresses at the ratio of 14:1 up to 25:1, whereas in a gasoline engine the compression ratio is between 8:1 and 12:1. After combustion, the combustion by-products are removed from the engine through the exhaust.

For starting during cold months extra heat is provided through ‘glow plugs’. Diesel engines can either be two cycle or four cycle and are chosen depending on mode of operation. Air-cooled and liquid-cooled engines are the variants to be chosen appropriately. It is preferable to use a liquid-cooled generator as it is quiet in operation and has evenly controlled temperature.

Advantages of a Diesel EngineCummins Generator for Indoor Applications
The diesel engine is much more efficient and preferable as compared with gasoline engine due to the following reasons:

Modern diesel engines have overcome disadvantages of earlier models of higher noise and maintenance costs. They are now quiet and require less maintenance as compared with gas engines of similar size

They are more rugged and reliable

There is no sparking as the fuel auto-ignites. The absence of spark-plugs or spark wires lowers maintenance costs

Fuel cost per Kilowatt produced is thirty to fifty percent lower than that of gas engines

An 1800 rpm water cooled diesel unit operates for 12,000 to 30,000 hours before any major maintenance is necessary. An 1800 rpm water cooled gas unit usually operates for 6000-10,000 hours before it needs servicing

Gas units burn hotter than diesel units, and hence they have a significantly shorter life compared with diesel units

Common Problems With Air Compressors
An air compressor problem could stem from one of many issues, such as an air leak, an oil leak or a broken part. In some cases, you might have insufficient pressurization or air flow. In other cases, the compressor might fail to start up or stop running as prompted. Whatever the cause of the problem, the symptoms can be frustrating, costly and time-consuming.

Thankfully, most such problems can be corrected with proper air compressor troubleshooting. The Titus Company has developed this troubleshooting guide for reference when your air compressor won’t work. Whether you’re hearing excessive noise from your portable air compressor or your system won’t build pressure, you’ll find the cause here — and, hopefully, a solution. If not, call us. We’ll be there quickly with our 24/7 emergency services.

1. Compressor Is Constantly Leaking

If you shut off the air compressor on full charge, yet the gauge drops while the compressor is deactivated, you definitely have an air leak. The compressor might even automatically restart just to counter the situation. What you need to do in this situation is pinpoint the source of the leak.

Apply soap to the connections: With the compressor unplugged, cover the connections with liquid soap, including all the couplers and the pressure switch. If bubbles form at any point, that is where the leak is located. Tighten up the coupler, if possible, where the bubbling occurs.

Inspect the tank check valve: Air leaks are sometimes caused by tank check valves that fail to close completely. If the pressure gauge continues to drop when the tank is off, access the tank valve and inspect its condition. The valve might need to be cleaned or replaced.

If the air leaks occur only when a hose is plugged into the compressor, disconnect the hose. If the pressure gauge stops dropping, the hose is the source of your leak.

2. Air Leaks From the Oil Fill Tube

If your compressor is losing pressure through the oil fill tube, check the piston seals. In most such cases, the piston seals will be badly worn and in need of immediate replacement. This is a problem that you should remedy immediately, as worn pistons can cause metal-on-metal friction that could swiftly lead to internal corrosion.

3. Air Leaks From the Hood

Air leaks from under the hood are sometimes encountered on smaller air compressors. To diagnose the problem, remove the hood, run the compressor for a few minutes, then shut it off and unplug the compressor. Feel around the motor parts for any sort of air draft. Chances are, the leak will originate from the tank valve, in which case you will need to remove and clean or possibly replace the valve.

How does an electric fuel pump work?
Are you curious about the bits and pieces that make your car do its thing?

Sure you are, and today is a good day for you. That’s because we’ve got a video here that will take you on a deep dive of your fuel pump. We’re talking abyss levels of deep here. The fuel pump gets removed for your viewing pleasure but then it gets hacked apart so you can see all of its innards.

The basic way your modern electrical fuel pump works is by utilizing a DC motor in the pump assembly which draws in the fuel sitting in your gas tank. From there, it sends it up the fuel line and into the fuel rail where it can be injected into a cylinder. It then mixes with air and a spark to create combustion.

There’s a filter on the end of your pump that keeps any impurities in your tank from entering the fuel line. Additionally, there’s a fuel float which literally floats on top of your fuel. This float has an arm attached to it that sends a signal through an electrical board. This resistance is read by your fuel gauge and tells you how much fuel is left in your tank. There’s also another electrical resistor that is submerged, but when it’s exposed to the air it knows you’re very low on gas and tells your Low Fuel Warning light to illuminate.

For those of you with older vehicles and mechanical fuel pumps, the process is a bit different. Your fuel pump in that situation has a pump lever that moves up and down as the camshaft spins. This creates a literal pump that pulls fuel through the line by way of suction. It’s a simple system that works directly with the engine rather than with an integrated DC motor.

Flywheel Damage? Repair, Or Replace, Is The Question
To be honest, the flywheel, should not really be all that ‘oily’ in its role of providing a smooth transfer of power from the car’s engine to its drive-train. However, it is still likely to be quite grubby and, as such, is not a component with which most of us will ever have any direct contact. That is why we take our cars to the garage, to discover the ‘bad news’.

It is recommended that, when a clutch needs to be replaced, as a result of normal wear and tear, the flywheel should be inspected carefully. The mechanic will be looking for visible wear grooves (usually as a result of the worn clutch-plates’ rivets being exposed), perhaps even glazing of its surface, or ‘cracks’ that can appear anywhere on its surface. Should problem areas be revealed, the suggestion will always be to replace, or repair, the flywheel.

However, not wishing to complicate issues, there are two types of flywheel. One is solid, the other is dual-mass. While a solid flywheel can be removed and resurfaced at Mr Clutch Autocentres by undergoing a skimming process, which can save the car owner a lot of money, wear characteristics on a dual-mass type, which tends to be fitted to more modern vehicles, lend themselves more ideally to the good practice of replacement.

There are clues as to how worn a flywheel might be. Irregular noises emanating from somewhere close to the front footwell of the car are an indicator that not all is well. However, you might be experiencing difficulty in making smooth manual gear changes. Some slight and variable clutch-slippage might occur, as might some unwarranted vibrations, felt through both the foot-pedals and the steering wheel, none of which are particularly desirable and will need attention.

With an ever-present eye towards saving the customer money, a Mr Clutch mechanic, as a skilled exponent of the clutch installation business, will be able to provide proper guidance, once the gearbox has been removed from the engine and a thorough inspection has been carried out. If you are fortunate and the flywheel has not been damaged by a worn clutch-plate, its replacement will simply not be deemed necessary.

However, increasingly, owners of cars fitted with dual-mass flywheels must foot the bill for replacement, in addition to the cost of a new clutch-plate and its ancillary parts. On the other hand, should it be a solid flywheel, the Mr Clutch expert might advise a skim. Mr Clutch Autocentres are equipped with the necessary high-tech machinery to effect such repairs, which can be completed speedily and cost-effectively.

The bottom-line is that a clutch replacement is a first-line task for Mr Clutch. That the company can address the charges most effectively (see the website for more details) and ensure that you are inconvenienced as little as possible, is a measure of the value of a visit to a Mr Clutch Autocentre.

http://www.xtengineparts.com/diesel-engine/